On a Wednesday evening at Park Kitchen, chef David Sapp rests a slice of hard-grilled pork terrine in a bowl of sushi rice and leek kimchi. Sapp, wearing a midnight-blue apron with tweezers emerging from the front pocket, looks out at the quiet dining room, then carries the finished plate to a table of guests himself.
That simple act of delivering a plate signals a major shift in the way we eat. Earlier this month, Park Kitchen joined the dozens of restaurants across the country that have ditched the traditional end to most diners' evenings: calculating the tip. To help streamline the change, the Northwest Portland restaurant cross-trained employees on a new hybrid service model, removing traditional "back-" and "front-of-house" roles.