The largest Koreatown in the Pacific Northwest is not quite where you’d expect to find it. It’s in Lakewood, Washington, a 23-year-old city of 60,000 people just outside of Tacoma. There are frankly few worthwhile stops off the I-5 corridor between Portland and Tacoma — fast food, gas stations, car dealerships, and maybe a diner or two — so when you turn onto South Tacoma Way, the sea of strip malls blanketed in Korean signage seems to appear out of nowhere, like a mirage materializing in the desert sun.